Bali is perhaps the most unique place I have visited while in Indonesia. It has unmatched natural beauty combined with an equally rich architectural, artistic, and religious traditions. A small island, Bali is the last vestige of the Hindu empires that once dominated Indonesia’s main island: Java. As Hindu rulers ceded their power to the age of Islam, the rulers fled to Bali and re-established their reign on a smaller scale. Though one might expect that Hinduism on Bali was imposed by Indian colonial powers, this is not the case. Javanese coastal elites consciously sought to emulate the Indian culture they experienced through traded and frequent interaction with Indians. To accomplish this, they imported priests, masons, and artisans that allowed them to set up their own version ofIndia on the archipelago. India was associated with culture and the Javanese sought to identify themselves with a great culture. Hinduism in Java (and now in Bali) was not however, an exact copy. Rather, Hinduism was layered on top of Javanese (and Balinese)
traditional beliefs which emphasize ancestors and various nature spirits.
traditional beliefs which emphasize ancestors and various nature spirits.
(Above). A unique feature of Balinese temples is the present of guardian gods on the outside of temples. These are to safeguard the temple and also remind the person to be in a pure state of mind.
On Bali, the primary gods are always the trimurti: Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. Brahma, the creator is represented by the colors red or white; Vishnu preserver, is the sustainer or preserver and is represented by the color green. Shiva, is the destroyer, and represented by black and white. Just as in India, Balinese Hindus believe in a cycle of reincarnation (Samsara), Karma, and Dharma. They do have the caste system (Sudras, Vaishyas, Kshatriyas, and Brahmins) though it is far less determinate of social behavior, moreover, the Vaishyas have increased status due to their importance in silversmithing.
(Above) Offerings are a ubiquitous sight around Bali. Everyone, and I mean everyone makes them--the cabdriver in his cab, the McDonalds worker in McDonalds, the Hotel workers at the hotel—everyone. The different colors in the offering represent different gods of the trimurti. (Below) The three layers of this family temple represent the Trimurti (Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva).
Underneath the Trimurti, is a second layer of Hindu gods. These include, Sarasvati, Rama, Sita, Hanuaman, Ganesh and so on. This layer would include other Hindu gods such as Durga that might have a higher status in India. Rama and Sita are particularly popular as they are primary characters in the Ramayana—the Hindu epic which is still widely read and viewed even among non-Muslims throughout the Indonesian archipelago.
(Above) A carver works on a statue depicting Ram and Shiva, two main characters in the Ramayana.
The Vedic Gods (Indra, Surya, Agni etc.) make up the third layer of Balinese gods. As with the Hindu Devas, these gods are of lesser importance on Bali. They are the gods of nature that are not worshipped as primary gods any longer. In addition to the first three layers of gods, there are also Balinese gods. Just like in Indian Hinduism, the Devas in Bali have a set of oppositional gods called Asuras. The Asuras, are competitors with the Devas and on Bali are equated with negative forces. Teaming up with the Asuras are Raksashas and Raksashis, troll like figures who inhabit the earth and disrupt human life. Raksashis commonly adorn the exterior of Hindu temples on Bali.
(Above) A Raksashi or troll.
In addition to the classes of Hindu gods found in India, the Balinese pantheon also contains supernatural beings that are native to Bali. These are similar to the Vedic gods but may govern smaller domains such as the sea or rice. Below is a picture of Tanah Lot, a temple complex for the Sea Goddess. The second picture shows small temples in a rice field that are built to honor the rice goddess.
In addition to the classes of Hindu gods found in India, the Balinese pantheon also contains supernatural beings that are native to Bali. These are similar to the Vedic gods but may govern smaller domains such as the sea or rice. Below is a picture of Tanah Lot, a temple complex for the Sea Goddess. The second picture shows small temples in a rice field that are built to honor the rice goddess.
The final layer of supernatural beings is the ancestors. In Bali, each family has its own temple. The temple honors the trimurti, the local Balinese gods, as well as ancestors. This means temples are literally all over the palce. Because I traveled close to my drivers house, we stopped at his family home and I visited the temple. I was also treated to Gamelan music by his father in law, a retired music teacher. (See Below).
With so many levels of gods and goddess, temples of various sizes and purposes are everywhere. There are mother temples for the world, temples to specific Balinese gods, temples to ancestors and so forth. You cannot travel more than a mile in Bali without seeing a temple of some sort.
(Above). The RoyalTemple.